Sunday, February 17, 2008
Comerç 24 restaurant in Barcelona is a full sensory reconstruction.
Comerç 24 is a truly moving experience, I knew this from my first visit last year, having a serious cold, its intense smells and tastes still penetrated my numb senses. I had to go back in full vigour, again with with good company. We had the grand Festive menu and it was a Spannish fiesta. What I find particularly cool with Carles Abellan’s cuisine is the deconstruction of traditional dishes. They are like the distilled version of the traditional dishes, like Cognac is to wine, incredibly intense, presented in an elaborate compact form with heritage of Spannish Tapas. It is like stuff you have not seen or tasted. I particularly fond of the Onion soup with a raw quails egg. I also like the asian influence, the Soba noodles, where the noodles had been replaced with fine strims of fish and carrots was pure fun. Many dishes are big surprises in the mouth, it is at that moment I pays tribute to tradition. Some dishes almost feel like they could have been served for hundreds of years. The place is open and inviting and the service is really caring. Compared to Omm, which I also like, it offers less theatre.
The décor is a fusion, bare old walls, mixed with vivid colours and organically shaped colourful chairs. There are tables places at different heights. Topped up with beautifully simplified flower arrangements of submersed roses. In short the décor complements the food and amplifies the experience.
Carles Abellan, worked under Ferran Adriá, at El Bulli. As I have not been there it is hard to say what the influence has been, but I imagine one cannot leave that kitchen untouched.
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